Milan knows how to surprise, especially when you decide to slow down and look at it with fresh eyes. That’s exactly what we did on a spring Saturday, walking along its most iconic canals: the Naviglio Grande and the Naviglio Pavese.
A walking itinerary through nature, history, street art, and poetry—perfect to discover the city’s authentic soul. And yes, there’s also a moving tribute to the great Alda Merini, the poetic spirit of these places.
From San Eustorgio to the Darsena: history and atmosphere
Our itinerary begins in Milan’s historical heart, in front of the evocative Basilica of San Eustorgio. From here we head onto the Naviglio Grande, letting the water and the warm colors of the traditional “case di ringhiera” guide us. We pass through the Vicolo dei Lavandai, a corner suspended in time, where we imagine women washing clothes in the canal, surrounded by chatter and the scent of soap.
We reach the Darsena, today buzzing with life, cafés, and bicycles. It’s the beating heart of the Navigli, where a perfect balance between past and present can be felt. Here I take a short break: the sun warms my skin and the atmosphere invites me to truly slow down.
Naviglio Pavese: nature and hidden corners
We continue along the Naviglio Pavese, which is definitely more peaceful yet equally charming. In springtime, flowers bloom along the canals, offering postcard-like views. We get lost among hidden courtyards, small art galleries, and colorful murals. Every corner is a discovery, an invitation to slow down.
A must-see stop: Spazio Alda Merini
On the quiet Via Magolfa 30, we find the Spazio Alda Merini, a small house-museum dedicated to the poetess who captured the soul of the Navigli like no one else. Open from Tuesday to Sunday (10:00 AM–6:00 PM), it’s an intimate, moving space.
Inside, I visit a faithful reconstruction of her bedroom, with original furniture and objects from her house in Ripa Ticinese. Then I lose myself among photographs by Giuliano Grittini, poetry panels and quotes. It’s impossible not to be touched by her words, still floating through these rooms.
Alda Merini lived most of her life along the Navigli, finding inspiration here for her writing. As you walk along Ripa di Porta Ticinese or stop at Bar Charlie, you can still breathe the bohemian atmosphere that permeated her poetry.
Hidden Navigli: stories, legends, and curiosities
Along the way, we uncover fascinating anecdotes that bring the Navigli to life:
- Leonardo da Vinci designed an ingenious system of locks to improve navigation.
- The marble blocks for Milan Cathedral traveled through these canals, reaching the heart of the city.
- A legend speaks of a romantic ghost wandering the Naviglio Pavese on moonless nights.
- The Borgo dei Formaggiai, known as “Burg dè Furmaggiat“, with its ringhiera houses, tells of an authentic, working-class Milan.
Unmissable murals: Street Art coloring the Navigli
The Navigli are not just history — they’re also an open-air museum for contemporary artists. The walls of the canal-side houses are decorated with colorful murals that tell modern stories while engaging with neighborhood traditions. This contrast between old and new makes the experience unique.
Here are the most beautiful street art pieces along the Navigli:
- In via Conchetta, Music is a Neverending Journey by Orticanoodles is a fluorescent mural pulsing with energy—a powerful tribute to music’s magic.
- Further along the Naviglio Pavese, Lo Squalo by Marco Teatro appears to leap from the canal. Stunning and surprising.
- On the Alzaia del Naviglio Grande, don’t miss TvBoy’s famous works like Follow the Blue, blending message and visual beauty in a perfect urban-pop style.
- Under the Guido Crepax bridge, the We Run the Streets collective reinterpreted Dante’s Divine Comedy with three breathtaking murals: Inferno, Purgatorio, Paradiso.
- Near via Magolfa, close to Spazio Alda Merini, murals by Morkone and Bastrocci pay tribute to the poetess with portraits and suspended verses.
- Finally, via Gola bursts with social, political, and creative expression. Visit during the day to fully enjoy it in safety.
Interactive Map of the Itinerary
To help you follow our walking itinerary step by step, we’ve created an interactive map with all the main stops, from historic landmarks to the best murals, including Spazio Alda Merini and the most picturesque hidden spots.
👉 Click here to open the map on Google Maps
What you’ll find on the map:
Basilica of San Eustorgio – starting point of the itinerary
Vicolo dei Lavandai – a historic and picturesque corner
Darsena – the vibrant heart of the Navigli district
Spazio Alda Merini – house-museum of the poet
Via Gola – urban and social street art
Practical Tips
Duration: The itinerary can be completed in a day-long walk. For those short on time, a shorter version focusing on the Naviglio Grande is also possible.
How to get there: Tram 3 from Piazza del Duomo to the Basilica of San Eustorgio.
Lunch break: Stop at one of the many restaurants along the canal to enjoy typical Milanese dishes.
To make the most of the itinerary: Take your time at the Spazio Alda Merini: it’s more than just a visit, it’s an experience!
If you’d like to extend your sustainable experience in Milan, take a look at the eco-friendly accommodations in and around the city: from green B&Bs and low-impact hotels to lodgings surrounded by nature.
This green itinerary through the Navigli will let you discover an authentic side of Milan, far from the hustle and bustle of the city center. Between historic canals, green corners, and the poetic legacy of Alda Merini, you’ll enjoy a unique experience that blends nature, culture, and art in one of the city’s most fascinating neighborhoods.
Cover image: photo via Canva PRO
