A slow winter journey along the Riviera of Ulysses: ten authentic experiences across ten towns, gathered by two residents over several seasons
The Riviera of Ulysses, in the Lazio region of Italy, is one of the most surprising stretches of the Tyrrhenian coast: about 75 km between Terracina, Sperlonga, Gaeta, and Formia, where the sea meets protected natural parks, historic hilltop villages, and mountains that shelter the coastline from cold northern winds. Less than two hours from both Rome and Naples, this area still preserves an authentic rhythm, far from the dynamics of mass tourism.
According to legend, these landscapes are linked to Homer’s Odyssey and the myth of Ulysses, who is believed to have spent time here with the sorceress Circe.
Today it is a regional nature park featuring long sandy beaches with dunes, picturesque rocky headlands reminiscent of the Cinque Terre in Liguria and several mountains reaching 200 meters. Two major Apennine ranges tower over all of this: the Aurunci and the Ausoni. They shield the Riviera from cold northern winds. Temperatures on the coast in winter rarely drop below 10 degrees Celsius, even at night.
There are six to ten major towns — each with its own character: from San Felice Circeo in the west to Minturo in the east, passing through Terracina, Sperlonga, Gaeta and Formia, as well as Fondi and Itri further inland.
Sperlonga deserves special mention for its central location, beautiful borgo (medieval historic center), archaeological museum MAN, culture scene and other features.
It was here that two creatives and professionals from northern Italy: Ivan Kuznetsov, a journalist, and Irina Kudres, a photographer, spent three winters (2023–2025) and more than a year in total. They wanted to share their impressions of this amazing place and wrote and published the book “Another odyssey” (Panoramica, 2025). It is a photo story with interviews with seven local, non-mythical heroes from various professions: a boatman, a chef, an archaeologist and others. But all of them, in one way or another, help develop sustainable tourism in the region.
In this article Ivan and Irina share their practical experience, which didn’t make it into the book, by answering a simple question: “What to do on the Riviera of Ulysses in winter”, rather than in summer.
Dine at a creative restaurant in Terracina
Lunch or dinner at the family-run Locanda Ruggeri (Via del Rio, 10) restaurant in Terracina is a great way to start your journey along the coast. Every day they prepare different dishes depending on what the fishermen have caught. But the menu also features meat, as well as all seasonal produce — for example, black truffles in winter. The restaurant is run by сhef Michele, his wife Piera and her parents. They often host events (tastings, lectures), so it also serves as an informal cultural space.
Watch the fishermen at the port of Gaeta
Every town on the Riviera has a port. The oldest and largest of them is in Gaeta. In the afternoon you can often see many fishing boats of various types and sizes there: from rowboats to large vessels, returning with their catch. Cats run around — and get plenty of fish. You can also buy it right off the boat or taste it in the restaurants. But there are other things to do at the port as well: you can watch the fishermen unload their cargo, wash and repair their boats, weave nets and more.
Walk along the longest beach in Fondi
The Tyrrhenian sea coast is ideal for walking, especially in winter. It’s not hot, and there are umbrellas on the beaches. The longest of them in Ulysses park (10–15 km) is between Sperlonga and Terracina, and belongs to the municipality of Fondi, although the city is not on the shore. The beach has almost no infrastructure, and features large dunes with rare protected plants. If you get tired, you can go out and return by bus. It’s best to walk at low tide, when the beach is wider and the sand is firmer.
Explore the national park of San Felice Circeo
At the westernmost point of the Riviera of Ulysses, near the town of San Felice Circeo, lies one of Italy’s 25 national parks of the same name. But before exploring it, take a stroll through the town itself — it’s on the list of “The most beautiful villages of Italy” (“Borghi più belli d’Italia”). The main and easiest one-day route through the park runs across the promontory (but not along the ridge — that’s much more difficult and dangerous). On the way there or back you’ll pass a picturesque 18-meter-tall Circeo Cape lighthouse.
Learn in the archaeological park near Minturno
The entire area between Rome and Naples is literally steeped in history. But if you had to pick one lesser-known specific spot on the Riviera, it would be the Minturnae archaeological park and the Real Ferdinando bridge near the town of Minturno in the east. One could say it’s the equivalent of Pompeii and Ostia Antica. Here you can also see an ancient Roman amphitheater, columns, porticoes and other structures, including a section of the famous Via Appia. This Roman road stretches from Rome to Brindisi in Puglia.
Take a boat trip to the island of Ponza
All year round Laziomar ferries depart from Formia three times a day for the island of Ponza in the Pontine archipelago. Life slows down there in the off-season, but never fully stops. Usually, even in winter, at least a few hotels and B&Bs remain open. There are hiking trails leading down to deserted beaches where you can have a picnic without other tourists. Choose a particular Tetide ferry and a sunny, calm day for your trip so that you can enjoy the views of the Arunchi Mountains from the open deck throughout the journey (2.5 hours).
Taste local products in the olive groves of Itri
Besides Fondi, the main inland town is Itri. There are many agricultural farms around it. Primarily, they grow olives of the famous Itrana variety, known under the brand name “Olive di Gaeta”. They are traditionally shipped from this port to destinations around Europe and the world. They are sold as brined fruits in jars, as a spread and, of course, as bottled oil in stores along the coast. Some companies offer tours with tastings — for example, Azienda Agricola Cosmo di Russo, just a 10-minute drive from Gaeta.
Hike in the mountains above Formia
Those who prefer longer hikes won’t be bored on the Riviera of Ulysses either. For them there are two more large parks: the Ausoni and the Aurunci mountains. The highest peak of the latter, Monte Petrella, 1,533 meters, towers over the entire province of Latina. For group hikes of up to 15 people, choose local guides from the Trek Med association. They organize them every weekend. If you prefer to go on your own, the easiest hike is up Cima del Redentore, 1,253 meters, right above Formia.
Spend a cultural evening in Sperlonga
During the winter holiday season the Sperlonga Tourism association hosts a variety of concerts in the borgo, which is also listed among “Italy’s most beautiful villages”. Everything is played: from acoustic guitar to jazz and rock, by the best local musicians, singers and performers. If there are no events during your visit, every weekend the latest films are shown at the old, authentic movie theater. Before the screening, enjoy a beautiful sunset from a café at the best viewpoint on the entire coast.
Conclusion
The Riviera of Ulysses in Latina, Lazio, is the perfect place for slow, eco-friendly and creative tourism during the winter season. Here you can stroll through the towns and their ports, enjoy delicious and affordable meals made with local seasonal produce, go hiking and engage in other outdoor activities, participate in cultural events for Christmas and New Year’s, and do so much more.
By visiting these and other similar places during the off-season, you support the development of sustainable tourism in these areas and on the planet as a whole.
Learn even more about such places before, during or after your trip through books like “Another odyssey” and other similar projects.
Cover image: Terracina beach. November 2023. Photo by Ivan Kuznetsov
Author: Ivan Kuznetsov. Journalist, editor and writer from Finnish Karelia living in Italy. He is a co-founder of Panoramica creative studio together with Irina Kudres, a photographer from Moscow. They mostly write and publish books and photo stories about creativity, nature and various communities in Italy, Europe and the world.
