Often called Italy’s green heart, Umbria is a mosaic of rolling hills, medieval villages, and sun-drenched vineyards. But beyond this gentle image, the region hides a wilder, more adventurous soul: one of deep valleys, remote mountains, evergreen forests and rushing waters that carve the land.
This guide takes you through the most untamed side of Umbria, along a green itinerary that celebrates slowness, nature, and sustainability. From Terni to the borders of the rugged Sibillini Mountains, you’ll experience breathtaking landscapes, hidden villages, and unforgettable hikes.
Terni and the Valnerina: Between Water, History, and Forests
The journey begins in Terni, a city worth visiting not only for its rich history but also for its easy access to the surrounding green landscapes. Terni preserves one of Italy’s finest examples of industrial archaeology. Its former steelworks area, once the beating heart of Italian metallurgy, is now being transformed into a vibrant cultural hub, with museums, art spaces, and creative centers. In the city center, don’t miss the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, the Basilica of San Valentino, and the modern landmark Lancia di Luce (“Spear of Light”).
Just minutes away, nature takes over. To the northeast you’ll find the Valnerina, the valley of the Nera River, dotted with hilltop villages and raw, untouched beauty. Here stands the iconic Marmore Falls, cascading in three spectacular drops for a total of 165 meters — one of the tallest man-made waterfalls in the world, originally engineered by the ancient Romans. The surrounding park is a lush oasis filled with trails, panoramic viewpoints, and opportunities to witness the power and beauty of nature up close. The Valnerina also offers forest trails, riverside walks, and small, quiet villages where time seems to slow down.
Not far from the valley lies Lake Piediluco, nestled between Mount Luco and Mount Caperno. It’s the second-largest lake in Umbria after Trasimeno and a perfect spot for a relaxing stroll or a peaceful canoe ride surrounded by silence and greenery.
Medieval Villages, Green Trails, and Embracing Nature
Continuing northeast along the Nera Valley and climbing toward the mountains straddling Umbria and the Marche, you’ll come across villages that seem frozen in time. Arrone, Scheggino, Vallo di Nera, and Ferentillo all sit in stunning natural settings, with cobbled alleys, stone houses clinging to the hillsides, and the gentle flow of the river below.
In these villages, you’ll encounter a quieter, more genuine side of Umbria — where local agriculture, small producers, and slow tourism thrive. Start your mornings with a walk through the woods, enjoy a simple lunch made with local ingredients, and spend your afternoons exploring shaded trails or following the riverbanks. This is a land that rewards simplicity and connection — where every step feels restorative.
Sibillini Mountains: Umbria Suspended Between Sky and Earth
As the valley narrows and the slopes rise, you enter the Sibillini Mountains National Park. Spanning both Umbria and the Marche, this vast protected area shelters peaks over 2,000 meters high, rolling plateaus, deep valleys, and an astonishing variety of flora and fauna. High-altitude hikes, the blooming meadows of Castelluccio di Norcia, the mystical Cave of the Sibyl, and glacial lakes make this a destination of pure wonder.
Visitors can enjoy a range of low-impact outdoor activities: trekking, mountain biking, canyoning, or simply peaceful walks through ancient beech forests. The landscape changes rapidly — from dense woodlands to rocky slopes, from narrow gorges to open plains — revealing the wild and silent essence of Umbria.
A must-visit along the way is the renowned town of Norcia, nestled among the mountains. It’s famous for its charming historic center and its celebrated gastronomy, from traditional cured meats to the prized black truffle that makes it a true culinary paradise.
Where to Stay in Umbria for a Sustainable Holiday
Tucked away in a small hamlet near Terni, surrounded by lush woods and breathtaking views, lies the PeR – Parco dell’Energia Rinnovabile (Renewable Energy Park). It is a truly unique retreat in Italy where hospitality, sustainability, and well-being come together to offer an authentic experience.
This is more than just an eco-farm stay. It’s a living laboratory of self-sufficiency, where every guest becomes part of a larger project: learning to live in harmony with the planet. Here, relaxation blends with awareness, inviting you to rediscover a simpler, more genuine lifestyle, reduce your environmental impact, and reconnect with nature’s rhythm.
The rooms, built with natural materials and eco-friendly paints, ensure comfort while respecting the environment. The entire property runs on renewable energy. At the PeRMagnà restaurant, you can savor dishes prepared with local and seasonal ingredients, and upon request, enjoy exquisite vegan and vegetarian cuisine.
For those who wish to explore other green stays in Umbria — from eco-farmhouses hidden in the woods to solar-powered sustainable homes — discover more options on Ecobnb.
