Montemor O Novo is a picturesque town in the heart of Alentejo, the largest region in Portugal and by far the least populated. Its name literally means “Beyond the Tejo,” indicating what lies beyond the Tagus River (Tejo in Portuguese). This city is easily accessible from central Lisbon, either by car or by bus.
Few people embarking on a trip to Portugal have heard of this town, which is why I would like to introduce it and let you discover it. For your next sustainable and mindful trip to Portugal, it could be one of your must-visit stops.
Alentejo: A Land of Contrasts and Natural Beauty
The region where Montemor O Novo is located is characterized by its vast expanse and the great variety of its landscapes: a long coastline and, inland, large estates ranging from vineyards to cork oak forests. It is a stunning and vast territory to explore, and for those who have visited Sardinia, the surrounding landscape may occasionally remind them of the Italian island.
The capital of this region is Évora, the largest city in the area, famous for its university and its Roman-era architectural structures. One of the city’s unique features is the long aqueduct that encircles it. Additionally, as you wander through its streets, you can admire whitewashed houses decorated with ochre-colored lines. The city has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which is why homes in the historic center follow strict architectural and aesthetic guidelines.
Another unique attraction in this Portuguese city is the Chapel of Bones, built by the Franciscans in the 17th century. Known as the Capela dos Ossos de Évora, it is a one-of-a-kind monument with walls covered in human bones.
Despite its natural and artistic wealth, this region has long been a center of significant migratory flows, resulting in one of the lowest population densities in Europe.
From Évora, you can reach Montemor O Novo easily by car or bus (be careful not to confuse it with Montemor O Velho). This city is less known than Évora but is just as ancient, beautiful, and fascinating.
Discovering Montemor O Novo
The local economy is primarily based on agriculture and livestock farming, which also influence the regional cuisine, characterized mainly by meat-based dishes. As you stroll through the city center, you may come across flocks of sheep, frequently seen in the green areas of the city, or stumble upon livestock fairs and markets.
The city is built on three hills: the largest hosts the Castle of Montemor O Novo, while the other two feature the Church of Nossa Senhora da Visitação and the Church of Nossa Senhora da Conceição. The castle was built on the site of a possible Roman fortification, likely destroyed during the Almohad Caliphate invasion. It is undoubtedly a significant historical site that attracts numerous tourists each year, mainly from Portugal and neighboring Spain.
The Castle of Montemor O Novo is an archaeological site I highly recommend visiting upon arriving in town. Once at the top, it is worth staying to witness a magnificent sunset. The castle holds great historical importance and offers a fantastic panoramic view of the surrounding area. Additionally, historical documents suggest that Vasco da Gama stayed here while preparing for his expedition to India.
When I arrived in Montemor O Novo, I discovered another side of Portugal—one not just about waves and endless beaches, but also rural landscapes, a few tractors, and shepherds tending their sheep.
The city is surrounded by abundant vegetation, with the cork oak as its undisputed protagonist. The Quercus Suber, the botanical name for this tree, is the cork oak, which plays a fundamental economic role in the city. The area is home to numerous processing companies that produce a variety of goods derived from this type of forest.
Alentejo’s Culinary Traditions: Dishes Not to Miss
In the past, Alentejo was a region where wheat was cultivated, and large plains allowed herds of pigs to roam freely among olive and cork oak trees. For this reason, bread, pork, and olive oil have become the foundations of the region’s cuisine, often combined with a variety of aromatic herbs.
One of the region’s specialties is the selection of small tasting dishes. Whether as appetizers or snacks, scrambled eggs with wild asparagus, ciccioli (pork rinds), or migas (breadcrumbs) with various ingredients are truly irresistible.
I recommend visiting Carlista (Sociedade Antiga Filarmónica Montemorense) to immerse yourself in a slice of the town’s daily life. Here, you can meet locals enjoying a beer, playing Sueca (a traditional card game), or singing Cante Alentejano (a folk singing tradition of the region).
Another must-try dish is sopa—soup or broth. Every November, the city hosts a soup festival where you can taste different types of soup made with a variety of ingredients.
Choices range from gaspacho, which is eaten cold, to salt cod soup or tomato soup with sausage. However, it would be a shame not to try the simplest yet most authentic one: açorda alentejana, made with water, olive oil, garlic, poached egg, bread, and coriander. Migas, made from bread, are often served as a side dish to fried pork or shredded cod.
A Sustainable and Community-Oriented Travel Experience
The city also hosts numerous community associations operating in various fields. If you are passionate about plants, I recommend visiting MARCA, an NGO focused on environmental and social projects, where you can explore their beautiful nursery. You might even fall in love with some plants and decide to take a few home as souvenirs.
Then there’s Oficina do Convento, a venue that frequently hosts exhibitions or experimental music concerts featuring artists from around the world. If you are interested in ceramics, Oficina da Cerâmica offers the opportunity to experience working with clay and participate in workshops (depending on the season), experimenting with different materials and colors.
For a sustainable and responsible shopping experience that supports local producers, I suggest visiting the fantastic store Minga or the beautiful covered market in Praça Professor Bento Jesus Caraça.
When discussing sustainable travel, many people may not have a clear understanding of what it entails. A responsible trip aligned with environmental values should always consider our social, economic, and ecological impact on the places we visit. To me, it also means making an effort to explore and appreciate lesser-known locations that are just as significant and representative of a country’s culture and values.
Cover image: Photo by Chiara Grottola
