Welcome to Basilicata, an authentic and magical land, home to an incredible heritage of art, nature, culture, traditions, and flavors. In this story, we invite you to explore two of the region’s most renowned delicacies: cheese and pasta.
Family-run and surrounded by greenery, mountains, and animals, Agriturismo Crescente, located just a few kilometers from San Severino Lucano in the province of Potenza, is the setting for these culinary workshops. San Severino Lucano is a small village with just over a thousand inhabitants, in the Pollino National Park.
From Milk to Cheese
Vincenzo, the owner, is only twenty-three years old and lives in his hometown with his family. He makes cheese and drives the school bus for local children. His face radiates tranquility, combined with a strong determination and will. With the help of his energetic grandmother Caterina, known as Maria, the driving force behind the farm, he showed us the art of the craft: how to turn milk into ricotta.
We stepped into a small workshop, where the preparation of ricotta cheese takes place, and we observed all the stages necessary for freshly milked goat and sheep milk to solidify and eventually grace our tables. We discovered the milk was poured into a copper tub to warm and mixed with natural rennet using a wooden stick to coagulate. We followed the process through curdling and the separation of whey, to the magical moment when the delicate white grains emerged and were placed into special molds to take shape.
From Milk to Ricotta
The lesson was exciting, enriched by a generous tasting session offered by our masters during the demonstration. We sampled two versions: primo sale cheese, still firm during the preparation phase, and the following warm, soft ricotta. It was a true delight.
We also met Salvatore, Vincenzo’s thirteen-year-old brother, who rides his horse and helps with the family business every day after school. A young professional, already attentive and tenacious, he assisted us in a brief horseback ride around the agriturismo.
Hands-on Pasta Making
Rosa’s skilled hands created the traditional pasta of the region for us. All it takes is about a kilo of durum wheat flour, warm water, and an egg to create the magic dough. Her fingers moved quickly and decisively over the mixture, which began to take shape and consistency, eventually forming a round, soft ball ready to be cut into the desired pasta shape.
Rosa rolled out long cylinders, cutting them into small or large “gnocchetti,” depending on the pasta she wanted to make. She pressed them with a finger to create the typical indentation of orecchiette or used a simple wooden tool to make “rascatielli“, or a thin rod to form fusilli.
It’s not as easy as it looks, and we quickly realized this when it was our turn to try recreating Rosa’s masterpieces, with varying degrees of success. But the process was fun!
From the workshop to the table was just a step. To truly test our newfound skills, it was time for our taste buds to have their say.
We enjoyed a spectacular meal filled with ancient flavors: cured meats, cheeses, sausages, pies, peppers, mushrooms, homemade pasta with rich sauces, and locally raised pork. All were accompanied by excellent house wine and delicious homemade liqueurs. This is an incredibly authentic menu, all sourced locally.
Experiencing the Authentic Flavors of Basilicata
Professionalism, kindness, and infectious warmth characterize this extraordinary land, which is waiting to be discovered and savored. Choosing Basilicata means embracing unique sensory moments, where nature, authenticity, and a slower pace reign supreme. The smiles, impeccable hospitality, and generosity of its people touch the soul.
What struck me most was how the locals, deeply in love with their region, are eager to share it with those who are curious to know it. It’s incredibly easy to connect with them directly.
I return home with an incredible wealth of knowledge about a land rich in traditions, flavors, history, and culture, where culinary arts and ancient crafts are still alive and passed down through families.
Follow the rest of our journey through San Severino’s authenticity, from its traditional craftsmanship, churches, murals, the RB Ride carousel, and the natural wonders revealed by our trek through Pollino National Park.
This incredible experience of exploring the richness and potential of the Lucanian region was made possible thanks to Marmo Melandro Viaggi, who, in collaboration with Viaggi del Milione, organized the educational tour “Basilicata Slow.”
Author: Cecilia Vecchi
Cover image: Agriturismo Crescente, Photo by Cecilia Vecchi